Global Market Comments
November 18, 2022
Fiat Lux
Featured Trade:
(NOVEMBER 16 BIWEEKLY STRATEGY WEBINAR Q&A),
(TSLA), (JNK), (HYG) or (TLT), (UUP), (FXE), (FXC), (FXA), (ALB), (FCX), (PYPL), (FXI), (GLD), (CCJ), (BHP), (RCL)
Global Market Comments
November 18, 2022
Fiat Lux
Featured Trade:
(NOVEMBER 16 BIWEEKLY STRATEGY WEBINAR Q&A),
(TSLA), (JNK), (HYG) or (TLT), (UUP), (FXE), (FXC), (FXA), (ALB), (FCX), (PYPL), (FXI), (GLD), (CCJ), (BHP), (RCL)
Below please find subscribers’ Q&A for the November 16 Mad Hedge Fund Trader Global Strategy Webinar broadcast from Silicon Valley in California.
Q: What do you see Tesla (TSLA) moving to from here until next year?
A: Not much; I mean if you’re lucky, Tesla won’t move at all. The problem is Twitter is looking like a disaster of huge proportions—firing half the staff on day one? Never good for building a business. Tesla has also been tied to the rest of big tech, which has been in awful condition and may not see a continuous move upward until the Fed actually starts lowering interest rates in the second quarter of next year. Tesla could be dead money here for a while; eventually, a company growing at 50% a year will go up—especially when it’s just had a 50% decline in the share price. As to when that is, I don’t know, and asking me 15 more times will get you just the same answer.
Q: Should we start piling into iShares 20 Plus Year Treasury Bond ETF (TLT) longs now or wait?
A: You go now. Every day you waited meant paying one point more in TLT. I think the bottom is in; we have a 20-30 point move ahead of us. Everybody in the world is now trying to get into this trade, just like I spent all this year trying to get out of it. And if anything, November CPI could be a long term-term top in inflation, especially if we came in with another cold number. So, I would start scaling in now, even though we’re over $100 in the (TLT) today and I first recommended this around $95.
Q: If the Fed keeps raising interest rates, will the US Treasury market fall?
A: Probably not because the Fed only has control of overnight interest rates—the discount rate, the interbank rate—whereas the (TLT) is a 10-to-20-year maturity bond. No matter what short term rates do, the inversion will just keep getting bigger, but in fact, the bond market itself was yielding 4.46%, yielding 8% with junk, has bottomed and will probably start going up from here. So that is the difference between the Fed and what the actual market does.
Q: Do you prefer Junk (JNK), (HYG), or (TLT)?
A: I always go for the highest risk. Junk has about an 8% yield here compared to 3.75% for the TLT. By the way, if you want to do one trade and go to sleep, buy the junk on 2 to 1 margin, get your 16% yield next year, and just take a one-year vacation. That’s what some people do.
Q: When you say the dollar is going to go down what do you mean?
A: I mean the US dollar, while Canadian (FXC) and Australian dollars (FXA) will go up.
Q: What is the best time to buy US dollars?
A: Maybe in five years, as it could go down for five or 10 years from here, now that it’s going to imminently give up its yield advantage.
Q: What's the forecast for casinos?
A: I think casinos do better. Las Vegas was absolutely packed, you couldn’t get into the best hotels—people are spending money like crazy.
Q: What’s the best way to play (TLT)?
A: With a one-year LEAP. I put out the $95/$100 last week for my concierge members. Here, you probably want to do the $100/$105; that’ll still give you a one-year return of 100%.
Q: How do you short the dollar?
A: There are loads of short dollar ETFs out there, or you can just sell short the Invesco DB US Dollar Index Bullish Fund (UUP), which is the dollar basket, or buy the (FXA) or (FXE).
Q: Freeport McMoRan (FCX) just went from 25 to 38; is it time to take a profit and re-enter at a lower point?
A: Short term yes, long term no. My long-term target for (FCX) is $100 because of the exponential growth of copper demand caused by EV production going from 1.5 million to 20 million a year in the next 10 years. Each EV needs 200 pounds of copper, so by 2030, annual copper demand for EVs only will be 20 billion pounds. In 2021, the total annual global copper production was 46.2 billion pounds. In order words, global copper production has to double in eight years just to accommodate EV growth only.
Q: Do you think there’ll be a rail worker strike?
A: I have no idea, but it will be a disaster if there is. There’s your recession scenario.
Q: What strike prices do you like for a Tesla LEAP?
A: Anything above here really. You could be cautious and do something like a $200/$210 two years out—that has a double in it. Or you could be more adventurous and go for a 400% return with like a $250/$260 in two years. I’m almost sure that we’ll have a major recovery in Tesla within two years.
Q: What’s your opinion on PayPal (PYPL) and Albemarle (ALB)?
A: I’m trying to stay away from the fintech area, partly because it’s tech and partly because the banks are recapturing a lot of the business they were losing to fintech a couple of years ago by moving into fintech themselves. That is the story and we’re clearly seeing that in the share prices of both banks and PayPal. I like Albemarle because the demand for lithium going forward is almost exponential.
Q: What’s your thought on the Australian dollar (AUD)?
A: Buy it with both hands as it is going to parity. Australia is a great indirect play on trade with China (FXI), gold (GLD), uranium (CCJ), and iron ore (BHP). It’s a great play on the recovery of the global economy, which will start next year.
Q: What do you think about Royal Caribbean Cruises Ltd (RCL)?
A: Probably a buy but remember all the cruise lines will be impaired to some extent by the massive debts they had to take on to survive two years of shutdown with the pandemic. I took the Queen Victoria last July on their Norwegian Fjord cruise, and it had not been operated for two years. None of the staff had any idea what to do. I had to show them.
Q: Will big tech have a good second half?
A: Probably, but it’s going to be a slow first quarter, and I think if we start getting actual cuts in interest rates, then it’s going to be off to the races for tech and they’ll all go to all-time highs as they always do.
Q: How come you haven’t issued any trade alerts yet on the currencies?
A: Calling a five-year turnaround is a big job. Now that we have the turnaround in play, we’re in dip-buying mode. So, you will see these in the future. But I also have to look at what currency trades are offering compared to other trades in other asset classes. And for the last year or two, the big opportunities have all been in stocks. You had volatility constantly visiting the mid $30s, you didn’t get that in the currencies, and more money was to be made in stock trades than foreign currency trades. That is changing now; let's see if we have a sustainable trend and if we get a good entry point. There’s a lot that goes into these trade alerts that you don’t always get to see. We only get a 95% success rate by being very careful in sending out trade alerts and that means long periods of doing nothing when the risk/reward is mediocre at best, which is right now. The services that guarantee you a trade alert every day all lose money.
Q: What is the recommended minimum portfolio size to amortize the cost of the concierge service?
A: I tell people to have a half a million in assets because we want people who are financially sophisticated to understand what we’re telling them. That said, we do have people with as little as 100,000 in the concierge service and they usually make the money back on the first trade. This is a very sophisticated high-return, very active service. You get my personal cell phone number and all that, plus your own dedicated website, and specific concierge-only research. It’s a much higher level of service. It’s by application only and we currently have no places available for new concierge members. However, if you’re interested, we can put you on the waitlist so that when another millionaire retires, we can open up a space.
Q: Despite recent moves, the algo looks bearish. There are lots of mixed signals.
A: Yes, it does. And yes, that’s often the case when the market timing index hangs around 50.
Q: Do concierges go for short term moves?
A: No, concierges are looking for the big, long-term trades that they can just buy and forget about. That is where the big money is made. At least 90% of the people that try day trading lose money but make all the brokers rich.
To watch a replay of this webinar with all the charts, bells, whistles, and classic rock music, just log in to www.madhedgefundtrader.com, go to MY ACCOUNT, click on GLOBAL TRADING DISPATCH or Technology Letter, then WEBINARS, and all the webinars from the last 12 years are there in all their glory.
Good Luck and Stay Healthy,
John Thomas
CEO & Publisher
The Diary of a Mad Hedge Fund Trader
Global Market Comments
November 9, 2022
Fiat Lux
Featured Trade:
(TESTIMONIAL),
(THE DEATH OF PASSIVE INVESTING),
(SPY), (SPX), (QQQ), (META), (UUP), (GLD), (INDU)
Global Market Comments
November 4, 2022
Fiat Lux
Featured Trade:
(NOVEMBER 2 BIWEEKLY STRATEGY WEBINAR Q&A),
(SPY), (LLY), (TSLA), (GOOG), (GOOGL), (JPM), (BAC), (C), (BRK), (V), (TQQQ), (CCJ), (BLK), (PHO), (GLD), (SLV), (UUP)
Below please find subscribers’ Q&A for the November 2 Mad Hedge Fund Trader Global Strategy Webinar broadcast from Silicon Valley in California.
Q: The country is running out of diesel fuel this month. Should I be stocking up on food?
A: No, any shortages of any fuel type are all deliberately engineered by the refiners to get higher fuel prices and will go away soon. I think there was a major effort to get energy prices up before the election. If that's the case, then look for a major decline after the election. The US has an energy glut. We are a net energy exporter. We’re supplying enormous amounts of natural gas to Europe right now, and natural gas is close to a one-year low. Shortages are not the problem, intentions are. And this is the problem with the whole energy industry, and the reason I'm not investing in it. Any moves up are short-term. And the industry's goal is to keep prices as high as possible for the next few years while demand goes to zero for their biggest selling products, like gasoline. I would be very wary about doing anything in the energy industry here, as you could get gigantic moves one way or the other with no warning.
Q Is the SPDR S&P 500 ETF (SPY) put spread, correct?
A: Yes, we had the November $400-$410 vertical bear put spread, which we just sold for a nice profit.
Q: I missed the LEAPS on J.P. Morgan (JPM) which has already doubled in value since last month, will we get another shot to buy?
A: Well you will get another shot to buy especially if another major selloff develops, but we’re not going down to the old October lows in the financial sector. I believe that a major long-term bull move has started in financials and other sectors, like healthcare. You won’t get the October lows, but you might get close to them.
Q: I’m waiting for a dip to get into Eli Lilly (LLY), but there are no dips.
A: Buy a little bit every day and you’ll get a nice average in a rising market. By the way, I just added Eli Lilly to my Mad Hedge long-term model portfolio, which you received on Thursday.
Q: Any thoughts about the conclusion of the Twitter deal and how it will affect tech and social media?
A: So far all of the indications are terrible. Advertisers have been canceling left and right, hate speech is up 500%, and Elon Musk personally responded to the Pelosi assassination attempt by trotting out a bunch of conspiracy theories for the sole purpose of raising traffic and not bringing light to the issue. All indications are bad, but I've been with Elon Musk on several startups in the last 25 years and they always look like they’re going bust in the beginning. It’s not even a public stock anymore and it shouldn’t be affecting Tesla (TSLA) prices either, which is still growing 50% a year, but it is.
Q: In terms of food commodities for 2023, where are prices headed?
A: Up. Not only do you have the war in Ukraine boosting wheat, soybean, and sunflower prices, but every year, global warming is going to take an increasing toll on the food supply. I know last summer when it hit 121 degrees in the Central Valley, huge amounts of crops were lost due to heat. They were literally cooked on the vine. We now have a tomato shortage and people can’t make pasta sauce because the tomatoes were all destroyed by the heat. That’s going to become an increasingly common issue in the future as temperatures rise as fast as they have been.
Q: Do I trade options in Alphabet (GOOG) or Alphabet (GOOGL)?
A: The one with the L is the holding company, the one without the L is the advertising company and the stock movements are really identical over the long term, so there really isn’t much differentiation there.
Q: Why can’t inflation be brought down by increasing the supply of all goods?
A: Because the companies won’t make them. The companies these days very carefully manage output to keep prices as high as possible. It’s not only the energy industry that does that but also all industries. So those in the manufacturing sector don’t have an interest in lowering their prices—they want high prices. If they see the prices fall, they will cut back supply.
Q: What do you think about growth plays?
A: As long as interest rates are rising, growth will lag and value will lead, and that has been clear as day for the last month. This is why we have an overwhelming value tilt to our model portfolio and our recent trade alerts. They’ve all been banks—JP Morgan (JPM), Bank of America (BAC), Citigroup (C), plus Berkshire Hathaway (BRK) and Visa (V) and virtually nothing in tech.
Q: I don’t know how to execute spread trades in options so how do I take advantage of your service?
A: Every trade alert we send out has a link to a video that shows you exactly how to do the trade. I have to admit, I’m not as young as I was when I made the videos, but they’re still valid.
Q: Is the US housing market about to crash?
A: There is a shortage of 10 million houses in the US, with the Millennials trying to buy them. If you sell your house now, you may not be able to buy another one without your mortgage going from 2.75% to 7.75%—that tends to dissuade a lot of potential selling. We also have this massive demographic wave of 85 million millennials trying to buy homes from 65 million gen x-ers. That creates a shortage of 20 million right there. That's why rents are going up at a tremendous rate, and that's why house prices have barely fallen despite the highest interest rates in 20 years.
Q: If we get good news from the Fed, should we invest in 3X ETFs such as the ProShares UltraPro QQQ (TQQQ)?
A: No, I never invest in 3X ETFs, because they are structured to screw the investor for the benefit of the issuer. These reset at the close every day, so do 2 Xs and not more. If you're not making enough money on the 2Xs, maybe you should consider another line of business.
Q: Do you think BlackRock Corporate High Yield Fund (HYT) will show the pain of slights because of their green positioning?
A: No I don’t, if anything green investing is going to accelerate as the entire economy goes green. And you’ll notice even the oil companies in their advertising are trying to paint themselves as green. They are really wolves in sheep’s clothing. They’ll never be green, but they’ll pretend to be green to cover up the fact that they just doubled the cost of gasoline.
Q: Where do you find the yield on Blackrock?
A: Just go to Yahoo Finance, type in (BLK), and it will show the yield right there under the product description. That’s recalculated by algorithms constantly, depending on the price.
Q: Do you like Cameco (CCJ)?
A: Yes, for the long term. Nuclear reactors have been given an extra five years of life worldwide thanks to the Russian invasion of Ukraine. Even Japan is opening theirs.
Q: Should I short the US dollar (UUP) here?
A: The answer is definitely maybe. I would look for the dollar to try to take one more run at the highs. If that fails, we could be beginning a 10-year bear market in the dollar, and bull market in the Japanese yen, Australian dollar, British pound, and euro. This could be the next big trade.
Q: What is your outlook on Real Estate Investment Trusts (REITs) now?
A: I think it looks great. REITs are now commonly yielding 10%. The worst-case scenario on interest rates has been priced in—buying a REIT is essentially the same thing as buying a treasury bond, but with twice the leverage, because they have commercial credits and not government credits. We’ll be doing a lot more work on REITS. We also have tons of research on REITS from 12 years ago, the last time interest rates spiked. I'll go in and see who’s still around, and I'll be putting out some research on it.
Q: How do you see the price development of gold (GLD)?
A: Lower—the charts are saying overwhelmingly lower. Gold has no place in a rising interest rate world. At least silver (SLV) has solar panel demand.
Q: Do you have any fear of Korea going into IT?
A: Yes, they will always occupy the low end of mass manufacturing, and you can see that in the cellphone area; Samsung actually sells more phones than Apple, but they’re cheaper phones with lower-end lagging technology, and that’s the way it’s always going to be. They make practically no money on these.
Q: When can we get some more trade alerts?
A: We are dead in the middle of my market timing index, so it says do nothing. I’m looking for either a big move down or big move up to get back into the market. This is a terrible environment to chase trades when you're trading, so I'm going to wait for the market to come to me.
Q: What about water as an investment? The Invesco Water Resources ETF (PHO)?
A: Long term I like it. There’s a chronic shortage of fresh water developing all over the world, and we, by the way, need major upgrades of a lot of water systems in the US, as we saw in Jackson, MS, and Flint, MI.
Q: Will REITs perform as well as buying rental properties over the next 10 to 20 years?
A: Yes, rental properties should do very well, as long as you’re not buying any city that has rent control. I have some rental properties in SF and dealing with rent control is a total nightmare, you’re basically waiting for your tenants to die before you raise the rent. I don’t think they have that in Nevada. But in Las Vegas, you have the other issue that is water. I think the shortage of water will start to drag on real estate prices in Las Vegas.
To watch a replay of this webinar with all the charts, bells, whistles, and classic rock music, just log on to www.madhedgefundtrader.com go to MY ACCOUNT, click on GLOBAL TRADING DISPATCH, then WEBINARS, and all the webinars from the last 12 years are there in all their glory.
Good Luck and Stay Healthy,
John Thomas
CEO & Publisher
The Diary of a Mad Hedge Fund Trader
It’s Been a Tough Market
Global Market Comments
September 30, 2022
Fiat Lux
Featured Trade:
(THE MAD HEDGE SEPTEMBER 13-15 SUMMIT REPLAYS ARE UP),
(WHY WARREN BUFFET HATES GOLD),
(GLD), (GDX), (GOLD), (NEM)
Global Market Comments
September 13, 2022
Fiat Lux
Featured Trade:
(THE NEXT COMMODITY SUPERCYCLE HAS ALREADY STARTED),
(COPX), (GLD), (FCX), (BHP), (RIO), (SIL),
(PPLT), (PALL), (GOLD), (ECH), (EWZ), (IDX)
Global Market Comments
June 7, 2022
Fiat Lux
Featured Trade:
(THE SECOND AMERICAN INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION),
(INDU), (SPY), (QQQ), (GLD), (DBA),
(TSLA), (GOOGL), (XLK), (IBB), (XLE)
Global Market Comments
May 9, 2022
Fiat Lux
Featured Trade:
(MARKET OUTLOOK FOR THE WEEK AHEAD, or HEADED FOR THE LEPER COLONY),
(SPY), (TLT), (TBT), (BRKB), (TSLA), (GLD), (AAPL), (GOOGL), (MSFT), (NVDA)
My worst-case scenario for the S&P 500 this year was a dive of 20%. We are now off by 14%. And of course, most stocks are down a lot more than that.
Which means that we are getting close to the tag ends of this move. The kind of wild, daily 1,000-point move up and down we saw last week is typical of market bottoms.
Some $7 trillion in market capitalization lost this year. That means we could be down $10 trillion from a $50 trillion December high before this is all over. That’s a heck of a lot of wealth to disappear from the economy.
So, it may make sense to start scaling into the best quality names on the bad days in small pieces, like Apple (AAPL), Alphabet (GOOGL), Microsoft (MSFT), and NVIDIA (NVDA).
Whatever pain you may have to take what follows, the twofold to threefold gain that will follow over the next five years will make it well worth it. Is a 20% loss upfront worth a long-term gain of 200%? For most people, it is.
Bonds may also be reaching the swan song for their move as well. The United States Treasury Bond Fund (TLT) at $113 has already lost a gobsmacking $42 since the November $155 high.
The markets have already done much of the Fed’s work for it, discounting 200 basis points of an anticipated 350 basis points in rate rises in this cycle. Therefore, I wouldn’t get too cutesy piling on new bond shorts here just because it worked for five months.
Yes, there is another assured 50 basis point rise in six weeks towards the end of June. Jay Powell has effectively written that in stone. We might as well twiddle our fingers and keep playing the ranges until then. We have in effect been sent to the trading leper colony.
The barbarous relic (GLD) seems to be looking better by the day. Q1 saw a massive 551 metric tonnes equivalent pour into gold ETF equivalents, an increase of 203%. Of course, we already know of the step-up in Russian and Chinese demand to defeat western sanctions.
But the yellow metal is also drawing more traditional investment demand. Gold usually does poorly during rising interest rates. This time, it's different. An inflation rate of 8.5% minus an overnight Fed rate of 1.0%, leaving a real inflation rate of negative -7.5%. That means gold has 7.5% yield advantage over cash equivalents.
Gold’s day as an inflation hedge is back!
The April Nonfarm Payroll Report came in near-perfect at 459,000, holding the headline Unemployment Rate at 3.5%. It’s proof that a recession is nowhere near the horizon. A record 2 million workers have recovered jobs during the last four months and 6.6 million over the past 12.
Warren Buffet is Buying Stocks, some $51 billion in Q1. That includes $26 billion into California energy major Chevron (CVX), followed by a big bet on Occidental Petroleum (OXY). These are clearly a bet that oil will remain high for at least five more years. That has whittled his cash position down from $147 billion to only $106 billion. Buffet likes to keep a spare $100 billion on hand so he can take over a big cap at any time. Warren clearly eats his own cooking, buying $26 billion worth of his own stock in 2021. If you can’t afford the lofty $4,773 price for the “A” shares, try the “B” shares at $322.83, which also offer listed options on NASDAQ and in which Mad Hedge Fund Trader currently has a long position.
Elon Musk Crashes His Own Stock, selling $8.4 billion worth last week. His Twitter purchase has already been fully financed, so what else is he going to buy. The move generates a massive Federal tax bill, but Texas, his new residence, is a tax-free state. It continues a long-term trend of billionaires piling fortunes in high tax states, like Jeff Bezos in Washington, and then realizing the gains in tax-free states.
Adjustable-Rate Mortgages are Booming, replacing traditional 30-year fixed-rate mortgage at a rapid pace. Interest rates are 20% lower, but if rates skyrocket to double digits or more in five years, you have a really big problem. ARMs essentially take the interest rate risk off the backs of the lenders and place it firmly on the shoulders of the borrowers.
Travel Stocks are On Fire, with all areas showing the hottest numbers in history. Average daily hotel rates are up 20% YOY, stayed room nights 52%, airfares 39%, and airline tickets sold 48%. Expect these numbers to improve going into the summer.
JOLTS Hits a Record High, with 11.55 million job openings in March, up 205,000 on the month. There are now 5.6 million more jobs than people looking for them. No sign of a recession here. It augurs for a hot Nonfarm Payroll report on Friday.
Natural Gas Soars by 9% in Europe as the continent tries to wean itself off Russian supplies. In the meantime, US producers are refusing to boost output for a commodity that may drop by half in a year, as it has done countless times in the past. If the oil majors are avoiding risk here, maybe you should too.
My Ten-Year View
When we come out the other side of pandemic, we will be perfectly poised to launch into my new American Golden Age, or the next Roaring Twenties. With interest rates still historically cheap, oil peaking out soon, and technology hyper accelerating, there will be no reason not to. The Dow Average will rise by 800% to 240,000 or more in the coming decade. The America coming out the other side of the pandemic will be far more efficient and profitable than the old. Dow 240,000 here we come!
With some of the greatest market volatility seen since 1987, my May month-to-date performance lost 4.27%. My 2022 year-to-date performance retreated to 25.91%. The Dow Average is down -9.3% so far in 2022. It is the greatest outperformance on an index since Mad Hedge Fund Trader started 14 years ago. My trailing one-year return maintains a sky-high 56.62%.
On the next capitulation selloff day, which might come with the April Q1 earnings reports, I’ll be adding long positions in technology, banks, and biotech. I am currently in a rare 50% cash position awaiting the next ideal entry point.
That brings my 13-year total return to 538.47%, some 2.30 times the S&P 500 (SPX) over the same period. My average annualized return has ratcheted up to 43.36%, easily the highest in the industry.
We need to keep an eye on the number of US Coronavirus cases at 81.9 million, up 500,000 in a week, and deaths topping 998,000 and have only increased by 5,000 in the past week. You can find the data here.
The coming week is a big one for jobs reports.
On Monday, May 9 at 8:00 AM EST, US Consumer Inflation Expectations are released.
On Tuesday, May 10 at 7:00 AM, the NFIB Business Optimism Index is confirmed.
On Wednesday, May 11 at 8:30 AM, the Core Inflation Rate for April is printed.
On Thursday, May 12 at 8:30 AM, Weekly Jobless Claims are disclosed. Conoco Phillips (COP) reports. We also get the Producer Price Index.
On Friday, May 13 at 8:30 AM, the University of Michigan Consumer Price Index for May is disclosed. At 2:00 PM, the Baker Hughes Oil Rig Count is out.
As for me, not just anybody is allowed to fly in Hawaii. You have to undergo special training and obtain a license endorsement to cope with the Aloha State’s many aviation challenges.
You have to learn how to fly around an erupting volcano, as it can swing your compass by 30 degrees. You must master the fine art of getting hit by a wave on takeoff since it will bend your wingtips forward. And you’re not allowed to harass pods of migrating humpback whales, a sight I will never forget.
Traveling interisland can be highly embarrassing when pronouncing reporting points that have 16 vowels. And better make sure your navigation is good. Once a plane ditched interisland and the crew was found months later off the coast of Australia. Many are never heard from again.
And when landing on the Navy base at Ford Island, you were told to do so lightly, as they still hadn’t found all the bombs the Japanese had dropped during their Pearl Harbor attack.
You are also informed that there is one airfield on the north shore of Molokai you can never land at unless you have the written permission from the Hawaii Department of Public Health. I asked why and was told that it was the last leper colony in the United States.
My interest piqued, the next day found me at the government agency with application in hand. I still carried my UCLA ID which described me as a DNA researcher which did the trick.
When I read my flight clearance to the controller at Honolulu International Airport, he blanched, asking if a had authorization. I answered that yes, I did, I really was headed to the dreaded Kalaupapa Airport, the Airport of no Return.
Getting into Kalaupapa is no mean feat. You have to follow the north coast of Molokai, a 3,000-foot-high series of vertical cliffs punctuated by spectacular waterfalls. Then you have to cut your engine and dive for the runway in order to land into the wind. You can only do this on clear days, as the airport has no navigational aids. The crosswind is horrific.
If you don’t have a plane, it is a 20-mile hike down a slippery trail to get into the leper colony. It wasn’t always so easy.
During the 19th century, Hawaiians were terrified of leprosy, believing it caused the horrifying loss of appendages, like fingers, toes, and noses, leaving bloody open wounds. So, King Kamehameha I exiled them to Kalaupapa, the most isolated place in the Pacific.
Sailing ships were too scared to dock. They simply threw their passengers overboard and forced them to swim for it. Once on the beach, they were beaten a clubbed for their positions. Many starved.
Leprosy was once thought to be the result of sinning or infidelity. In 1873, Dr. Gerhard Henrik Armauer Hansen of Norway was the first person to identify the germ that causes leprosy, the Mycobacterium leprae.
Thereafter, it became known as Hanson’s Disease. A multidrug treatment that arrested the disease, but never cured it, did not become available until 1981.
Leprosy doesn’t actually cause appendages to drop off as once feared. Instead, it deadens the nerves and then rats eat the fingers, toes, and noses of the sufferers when they are sleeping. It can only be contracted through eating or drinking live bacteria.
When I taxied to the modest one-hut airport, I noticed a huge sign warning “Closed by the Department of Health.” As they so rarely get visitors, the mayor came out to greet me. I shook his hand but there was nothing there. He was missing three fingers.
He looked at me, smiled, and asked, “How did you know?”
I answered, “I studied it in college.”
He then proceeded to give me a personal tour of the colony. The first thing you notice is that there are cemeteries everywhere filled with thousands of wooden crosses. Death is the town’s main industry.
There are no jobs. Everyone lives on food stamps. A boat comes once a week from Oahu to resupply the commissary. The government stopped sending new lepers to the colony in 1969 and is just waiting for the existing population to die off before they close it down.
Needless to say, it is one of the most beautiful places on the planet.
The highlight of the day was a stop at Father Damien’s church, the 19th century Belgian catholic missionary who came to care for the lepers. He stayed until the disease claimed him and was later sainted. My late friend Robin Williams made a movie about him but it was never released to the public.
The mayor invited me to stay for lunch, but I said I would pass. I had to take off from Kalaupapa before the winds shifted.
It was an experience I will never forget.
Stay Healthy,
John Thomas
CEO & Publisher
The Diary of a Mad Hedge Fund Trader
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